WF Archives, June 2005: "Lounge on Eleven"

After attending a meeting recently, I was invited by several fellow committee members for a leisurely drink at Lounge On Eleven. Although I have seen advertising in the City House and Winged Foot, I’ll have to admit that this was the first time I actually visited the Lounge, located in the eastern end of the Main Dining Room.

I was very surprised to find that while many members continue to patronize the relocated Tap Room, Lounge On Eleven was practically vacant. With their elegant and comfortable lounge-styled seating arrangement, commanding view of the Central Park, and complimentary selections of appetizers, I cannot imagine a better place in the Club to enjoy a glass of wine or cocktails.

I was also very eager to see the new “cruvinet” dispensing system, which is to wine by the glass what tap system is to beer. According to the manufacture, cruvinet retards oxidation process in wines by displacing oxygen with odorless nitrogen, allowing an opened bottle to remain fresh for up to six weeks. Since cruvinet is also temperature- controlled, you would be relieved to know that you will not be served skunked wine in the Main Dining Room or Lounge On Eleven!

Looking at the drink menu, I decided to pass on Schug Pinot Noir due to my recent over- exposure from conducting extensive “research.” I started the evening with 1994 Chateau La Tour Haut Brion from Graves (Bordeaux). At first, this wine seemed like your typical Bordeaux, with black currant on the nose and dark berries on the palate. Then something interesting happened. A few minutes after pouring, the flavor began to get slightly funky, as if the wine was reversing its process of aeration after opening the bottle. I decided that it was a good time to shift my focus to the food, which included escargot, salmon, and mozzarella and tomato.

Fortunately, after 15 minutes or so, the wine did level itself out into smooth, silky, and approachable Bordeaux with typically understated elegance. Interestingly, I had a similar experience when I opened a bottle of 1999 Chateau Bel-Air Haut Medoc, which taught me that some wines do really require patience before their flavor reaches peak.

The second wine I had was Penfold’s Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz, which didn’t require such patience. (Writer’s note: the drink menu lists comparably priced 2000 Penfold’s Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz.)

Shiraz is the Australian counterpart to Syrah, which is popular in Southern France (Rhone and Languedoc-Rousillon), where it may be blended with Grenache and Mourvedre. Cote du Rhone, Crozes-Hermitage, and highly acclaimed Chateneauf-du-Pape are representative of such wines. Syrah is also grown in California, and EXP Syrah and Sean Thackery Pleiades Old Vines XIII blend are fine examples of syrah and syrah-blend, respectively.

With its dark fruits character and spicy finish, I think of shiraz/syrah as a fuller-bodied version of Zinfandel. Owing to warm climate, Australian version is richer, fuller, and fruitier, than French and American counterpart, and is commonly referred to as being “inky” or “big.”

Shiraz is one of my favorite wines, and Penfold’s further cemented that status. The appearance is deep ruby in color, almost purple, hinting at its deep and rich fruit. The aroma and palate is full of dried plums and raisin, complemented by hints of coffee. It has silky tannins, with a very warm presence. Although the wine would be classified as being big, it does not feel heavy. Interestingly, Penfold’s lacks the dominant spicy black pepper flavor finish commonly associated with Shiraz.

I enjoyed Penfold’s so much so that when I was invited to join fellow wine aficionado Peter Cella for dinner in the Main Dining Room, I planned my main course around the wine. I decided to order herb-crusted rack of lamb, served medium- rare, off the Spring Special Three- Course Menu, and the pairing was simply sensational. The herbs and spices of the crust really brought out the fruit in the wine, similar in the way sprinkling salt enhances flavor of watermelon (and other fruits.) The rich flavor of the wine, in turn, provided a wonderful backdrop to the juicy nature of the meat; hints of coffee and dried fruits, along with tannins from the wine, served to enhance the full structure and flavor of the lamb. The interplay of texture between the crispness from crust, tenderness of the lamb, and warmth and softness of the wine was harmoniously complex. This was one of the best food-wine experiences I can remember to date.

It is rare to find such a harmonious pairing between wine and food, where each element enhances the character of the other. I invite you to try Penfolds with herb-crusted rack of lamb at the Main Dining Room. For those who are ambitious, I challenge you to find a better pairing. Cheers!