WF Archives, February 2006: Trends in Japan

When those of us in the United States is asked to name the most popular beverage in Japan, many would undoubtedly and enthusiastically reply, “saké!” They would always be right, as “saké” in Japan is actually a generic term that refers to any alcoholic beverage. If you meant “rice wine,” then that answer maybe in jeopardy. Incidentally, long-time popularity of “Nihon-shu” in Japan made “rice wine” synonymous with the term “saké,” and that reference has carried over to the U.S. Getting back to the original question, I found out during my recent two- week trip to historic Kansai area that there is another beverage that has taken Japan by storm: shochu.

The popularity of shochu (also known as “soju”) is reflected in the fact that most bars in the western and southern prefectures carry more selections of shochu over saké, and the southern most prefecture of Kagoshima is known for producing only shochu. To see more shochu offered in bars in Osaka was especially revealing, since it is near a major saké producing area of Nada, essentially Bordeaux of saké world. Perhaps as a sign of the changing of the guard, , you may even receive shochu when you order “saké” at a bar in some parts of Japan!

Simply put, shochu is to saké what brandy is to wine; in other words, it goes through the extra process of distillation. Distillation is a process of adding heat to the fermented beverage, which results in a spirit with higher alcohol percentage per volume, mostly in the 20~24% range. Some claim that distillation process helps remove impurities and minimize the risk of a hangover, a point well received by the marketers of the industry.

While the analogy with brandy is a very simple one, the topic of shochu is very complex. The complexity of shochu can be attributed to the ingredients and distillation method. Shochu can be made from wide range of ingredients that contain residual sugar, and they include barley, rice, sweet potato, brown sugar, soba (buckwheat noodles), and shiso leaf, among others. Some shochus are distilled once to preserve the flavor of the original ingredient, and they are best served neat or on the rocks. Others are distilled several times to add smoothness to the texture, and they are suitable for drinking neat, on the rocks, or for blending.

A shochu that many may recognize is Iichiko ($20), distilled from barley. Think of Iichiko as a lighter and smoother version of vodka with a clean and dry finish. Iichiko can be served in a myriad of ways: chilled and neat, on the rocks, with soda, juice, oolong tea, or the Japanese favorite of blending with hot water infused with umé plum.

A single distilled shochu of note is rice-based Tori Kai ($40). Because the base ingredients are same as saké, the flavors are very similar to ginjo-class saké. Distilled once to showcase highly aromatic flavors of tropical fruits, floral notes, and hints of licorice, Tori Kai is best served chilled or on the rocks to maximize the flavor and smoothness.

The biggest selling shochu in Japan right now is not made from the traditional ingredient of barley or rice, but sweet potato. This phenomenon is not unlike the recent popularity of the potato vodka such as Belvedere and Chopin here in the U.S. Shochu such as Shiranami, available in some saké bars and Japanese restaurants, have a distinctive earthy notes and deeper sweetness that complement the dryness.

Perhaps the most interesting shochu I tried was a brown sugar shochu called Black Amami (not available in the U.S.). Black Amami had an uncanny resemblance to a cleaner style whisky, with the alcohol to match at 40%.

All the shochus were perfect accompaniment to traditional saké bar fares, such as yakitori, fried chicken cutlets, teriyaki, and earthy root vegetables. For grain-based shochu like Iichiko, they would favor beef dishes and fried food, while fragrant rice shochus are better suited for lighter meats, fish, and vegetables.

Since my visit was in Osaka and Kyoto, I was not able to visit any shochu distilleries. However, I was able to visit several saké breweries in Nada (Hyogo Prefecture.) Shushinkan brewery was generous enough to offer guided tour of the facilities and describe the process in detail, and the guide was very receptive to answering many questions I posed. Although I learned a lot about the process, the biggest impression I took with me was the pride each brewery and each worker has in their craft.

Of course, no self- respecting brewery tour is complete without the tasting, and this was no exception. Our generous guide was kind enough to allow me to try some rare sakés that are unavailable on the market, in addition to the standard offerings. Between my experiences at several breweries and establishments, I was able to get a good grasp of the taste of traditional- style saké: light, crisp, pure, clean, and dry. Hakkaisan Junmai Ginjo, available in some saké bars, is a good representative of such approach.

While saké is still slowly gaining acceptance in the U.S., and have yet to reach its peak popularity in my opinion, shochu remain anonymous for most American consumers at this point. It will be interesting to see how the recent trends in saké and shochu in Japan reflect on future trends in the U.S. over the next several years.