WF Archives, March 2006: Single Malt Scotch

Shortly after I submitted last month’s Saké/Shochu article, I noticed that January 4th edition of The New York Times featured an article on Shochu made from sweet potato in their “Dining In” section. The article is highly recommended for those who would like to further educate themselves on the recent Shochu trend.

Winter is a good time to discuss another distilled beverage with character, complexity and uniqueness rivaling that of wine. Like wine, this particular beverage showcases differences in region, aging method, and aging length. This beverage is none other than Single Malt Scotch.

The regional characteristics are reflection of differences in the combination of natural elements and production methods. Scotches produced in proximity to the sea, such as those from Islay (such as Laphroaig and Lagavulin), Campbeltown (Springbank), Orkney Islands (Highland Park), and Isle of Skye (Talisker), have a noticeably briny element. Traditionally, Scotches of the Highlands used peat as a main source of heat during production, giving them smoky flavor with medicinal edge. On the other hand, Scotches of Lowland used coal as a source of heat, infusing them with distinctively oily and smoky flavors that are reminiscent of bacon fat. Once the rail systems connecting Highland and Lowland were established, Highland distillers also started using coal, although small amount of peat are still used. Speyside, where many of the Single Malt Scotches are produced today, are renown for their complexity and diversity in both flavor and body weight.

Second element that plays a significant role in determining the color and flavor of Scotch is the aging method. While the law stipulates that the whiskies are to be aged in oak casks, distillers can choose between American or French oak or both, as well as new wood versus pre-seasoned casks. The flavors imparted by those casks vary: Burgundy cask showcases fruits with hints of vanilla; bourbon imparts softness, sweetness, and oak; sherry adds fruitiness; Madeira infuses fruits, nuttiness, and dryness; and port mellows the flavor while adding darker fruit. One way to experience the differences in flavors would be to try horizontal tasting, and Glenmorangie (Highland) offers 12 year- old whiskies aged in Burgundy, Madeira, port, and sherry casks. Each bottle is available for a under $50.

On a side note, there is an interesting practice in the world of Scotch where independent bottler send handpicked casks to the distillers to be used for aging their special releases. Some of those practitioners include Duncan & Taylor, Dun Bheagan, Gordon & MacPhail, Signatory, and Cadenhead.

Third major factor is the length of aging. By law, whiskies must be aged for minimum of three years, but most whiskies out on the market are aged ten years or longer. Naturally, there is a positive correlation between aging and pricing. The $64,000 question, then, is whether there is a positive correlation between the quality of whisky and pricing. “Surely, older Scotch must be better just like older wine or port!” my instinct screamed. After much research, I discover that there is no definitive correlation between the cost and performance, much to the delight my wallet.

Both young and old Scotch has their strengths and weaknesses. To simplify the matter, young Scotches offer vibrancy, spiciness, and full flavor, while risk being harsh. On the other hand, more mature Scotches are often mellow and complex, with the potential downside of having cask overpower its natural flavors. Ultimately, it comes down to personal taste.

To illustrate my point, the best value of the month goes to Glenmorangie 10 Year-Old (Highland, $37). In the market dominated by 12 and 15 year-olds priced in $45 range, Glenmorangie 10 Year-Old offers tremendous complexity. The nose is spicy, yet gives hint of balanced sweetness. The flavor is blend of peat, caramel, and toast, leading to a spicy, dry, and crisp finish. I rated this Scotch second in a six- bottle tasting, narrowly edged out by slightly bigger and smokier Dalwhinnie 15 Year-Old ($45). The others ontestents, listed in order of finish, were Balvenie Doublewood 12 Year-Old (Speyside, $43), Glenlivet French Oak 12 Year-Old (Speyide, $30), Glenfiddich Special Reserve 12 Year-Old (Speyside, $35), and Macallan 12 Year-Old (Highland, $40).

There are two bottles that compete for the best Scotch I’ve had the pleasure to taste. It is hard to pick out a sole winner, as each bottle takes a very different approach. The first Scotch is Dun Bheagan 35 Year-Old Cask Strength (Campbeltown, $349), and its assertiveness and complexity is evident starting with the nose, where there is a conversion of fruit, grain, and smoke. The palate is a delicate balance between sweetness, acidity, and softness from the grain and oak, followed by a long finish with blend of mild spiciness, oiliness, and saltiness.

The second bottle is the 1968 Duncan & Taylor Glenlivet 34 year-old (Speyside, $199), also released through an independent bottler. While not as assertive or complex as Springbank 35 Year-Old, this bottle highlighted outstanding balance between flavor and softness, and what really stood out was its gentle and pleasant tactile sensation. Unlike other Scotches I’ve tasted, the soft and dry flavor seemed to suspend itself in my mouth and gently radiating flavor instead of clinging to every taste bud and letting its presence known. I’ve experienced this sensation only on one other occasion, courtesy of Tesseron Cognac from the 1920’s.

WF Archives, February 2006: Trends in Japan

When those of us in the United States is asked to name the most popular beverage in Japan, many would undoubtedly and enthusiastically reply, “saké!” They would always be right, as “saké” in Japan is actually a generic term that refers to any alcoholic beverage. If you meant “rice wine,” then that answer maybe in jeopardy. Incidentally, long-time popularity of “Nihon-shu” in Japan made “rice wine” synonymous with the term “saké,” and that reference has carried over to the U.S. Getting back to the original question, I found out during my recent two- week trip to historic Kansai area that there is another beverage that has taken Japan by storm: shochu.

The popularity of shochu (also known as “soju”) is reflected in the fact that most bars in the western and southern prefectures carry more selections of shochu over saké, and the southern most prefecture of Kagoshima is known for producing only shochu. To see more shochu offered in bars in Osaka was especially revealing, since it is near a major saké producing area of Nada, essentially Bordeaux of saké world. Perhaps as a sign of the changing of the guard, , you may even receive shochu when you order “saké” at a bar in some parts of Japan!

Simply put, shochu is to saké what brandy is to wine; in other words, it goes through the extra process of distillation. Distillation is a process of adding heat to the fermented beverage, which results in a spirit with higher alcohol percentage per volume, mostly in the 20~24% range. Some claim that distillation process helps remove impurities and minimize the risk of a hangover, a point well received by the marketers of the industry.

While the analogy with brandy is a very simple one, the topic of shochu is very complex. The complexity of shochu can be attributed to the ingredients and distillation method. Shochu can be made from wide range of ingredients that contain residual sugar, and they include barley, rice, sweet potato, brown sugar, soba (buckwheat noodles), and shiso leaf, among others. Some shochus are distilled once to preserve the flavor of the original ingredient, and they are best served neat or on the rocks. Others are distilled several times to add smoothness to the texture, and they are suitable for drinking neat, on the rocks, or for blending.

A shochu that many may recognize is Iichiko ($20), distilled from barley. Think of Iichiko as a lighter and smoother version of vodka with a clean and dry finish. Iichiko can be served in a myriad of ways: chilled and neat, on the rocks, with soda, juice, oolong tea, or the Japanese favorite of blending with hot water infused with umé plum.

A single distilled shochu of note is rice-based Tori Kai ($40). Because the base ingredients are same as saké, the flavors are very similar to ginjo-class saké. Distilled once to showcase highly aromatic flavors of tropical fruits, floral notes, and hints of licorice, Tori Kai is best served chilled or on the rocks to maximize the flavor and smoothness.

The biggest selling shochu in Japan right now is not made from the traditional ingredient of barley or rice, but sweet potato. This phenomenon is not unlike the recent popularity of the potato vodka such as Belvedere and Chopin here in the U.S. Shochu such as Shiranami, available in some saké bars and Japanese restaurants, have a distinctive earthy notes and deeper sweetness that complement the dryness.

Perhaps the most interesting shochu I tried was a brown sugar shochu called Black Amami (not available in the U.S.). Black Amami had an uncanny resemblance to a cleaner style whisky, with the alcohol to match at 40%.

All the shochus were perfect accompaniment to traditional saké bar fares, such as yakitori, fried chicken cutlets, teriyaki, and earthy root vegetables. For grain-based shochu like Iichiko, they would favor beef dishes and fried food, while fragrant rice shochus are better suited for lighter meats, fish, and vegetables.

Since my visit was in Osaka and Kyoto, I was not able to visit any shochu distilleries. However, I was able to visit several saké breweries in Nada (Hyogo Prefecture.) Shushinkan brewery was generous enough to offer guided tour of the facilities and describe the process in detail, and the guide was very receptive to answering many questions I posed. Although I learned a lot about the process, the biggest impression I took with me was the pride each brewery and each worker has in their craft.

Of course, no self- respecting brewery tour is complete without the tasting, and this was no exception. Our generous guide was kind enough to allow me to try some rare sakés that are unavailable on the market, in addition to the standard offerings. Between my experiences at several breweries and establishments, I was able to get a good grasp of the taste of traditional- style saké: light, crisp, pure, clean, and dry. Hakkaisan Junmai Ginjo, available in some saké bars, is a good representative of such approach.

While saké is still slowly gaining acceptance in the U.S., and have yet to reach its peak popularity in my opinion, shochu remain anonymous for most American consumers at this point. It will be interesting to see how the recent trends in saké and shochu in Japan reflect on future trends in the U.S. over the next several years.